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Design without labels
Curiosity, courage, commitment and, above all, a constant quest for connections between disciplines and languages. Under Pablo Erroz’s inquisitive gaze, design becomes infinite: a fluid universe that knows no genders, seasons, or borders, and where multicultural citizens can express their individuality without sacrificing sophistication or ease. His presentation at the 75th edition of the MBFWM speaks for itself.
We meet up with Pablo in Barcelona a few days before MBFWM (Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid) at his showroom, located in an elegant modernist building in the city centre, where he shows us his new collection. On a manic day, we walk with him along the streets of Poblenou and the 22@ District sharing thoughts, permanently connected to our particular workplaces. We perfectly embody the multitasking profile of the modern citizen which inspires Pablo’s collections. We stop at the Libertine cafe at Casa Bonay, a multicultural environment that also functions as a coworking space. Pablo is in his element. We start to understand.
Pablo Erroz (Palma de Mallorca, 1989) defines himself, above all, as a fan of visual communication. “Design is nothing more than a form of expression,” he declares. So, what started out in 2012 as a fashion brand —Pablo first went through the ranks of Inditex and, from there, became the creative director of Caramelo— has transcended the limits of the industry today and has turned into “a brand multidisciplinary universe”. A proposal that includes from interior design products (flooring, furniture, rugs, etc.), to collaborations with wine brands. “Design doesn’t need any barriers. We don’t have them either,” he highlights.
“It’s a multidisciplinary project that brings together people, spans universes, connects brands, and enables us to reach further afield”
In fact, he knows that his project aims to avoid conditioning. “It makes no sense to associate garments to seasons. For the last three years, we’ve been creating completely timeless collections. Under the same umbrella, we work on an annual proposal that brings together summer and winter. We also mix together men’s and women’s collections, and we’ve always said that we’re a unisex brand, but now it’s known as genderless”, he continues. In short, they design garments and it’s the individual who decides. “We’re here to give people tools that allow them to express themselves better and have their own voice,” he adds.
On this borderless adventure, collaborations play an essential role. “A saying I love says: ‘If you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go together.’ We understood that, in this new era, it was essential to connect with companies that were working in those fields.” He continues: “Pablo Erroz is a multidisciplinary project that brings together people, spans universes, connects brands, enables us to grow together and reach further afield.”
Commitment with the planet
Nicknamed by Vogue as “heir of the New Yorker cool”, today he’s one of the top names in Spanish fashion. Other recognitions include the Onda Cero al diseño (2014), the Barcelona Designers Collective (2015), and best Spanish male designer at the Woolmark Prize International (2017). Additionally, he’s been a finalist on Vogue Spain’s Who's On Next for best designer of the year for three consecutive years.
One of the keys to his success is, without a doubt, his strong commitment to sustainability, a concept he understands in the broadest sense of the term: that which sustains a business over time, in the short, medium, and long term, while taking care of the environment. “Today we produce throughout Spain. We aim for 80% of our fabrics to be part of existing batches, we’re committed to responsible consumption, and are aligned with the SDGs (Sustainable Development Goals). Likewise, if we need to create a fabric, we’ll always do so using recycled textiles. We try to uphold the philosophy of upcycling, recycling, and the circular economy.”
“I always say that I’m not a designer, rather a creative director, which encompasses a lot more”
Furthermore, he’s aware that today, perhaps the most sustainable thing is not producing, or producing a lot less: “Some of the garments we’ve created in our latest collection include their own NFT and will only be available in the digital world, and we’re working on them being included in the metaverse in the future”. NFT technology also allows us to trace products: “You can scan most of our garments with a smartphone. You’ll encounter a digital experience that’ll allow you to know everything there is behind a garment, such as the processes followed”, he explains.
More than a designer
Intensity is the word that defines a day in the life of Pablo, as he himself describes. “The good thing about my day-to-day as a creative director is that it’s never the same. I’m someone who gets up early because I have a lot of energy in the mornings. I start with a strong coffee, read through emails, and plan my day. We often go by the showroom to see how things are going and to be in direct contact with the customer and the stylists. Other days, we have to check the workshops. We’re also in touch daily with our school, our collaborators, and people with whom we develop parallel projects. And new projects come up every day, so we improvise as we go along.”
“For me, talent is those people that surpass themselves daily, face their fears, and are constantly evolving”
In fact, he admits that he goes with the flow of life and the connections that cross his path: “Perhaps I’ve done things without overthinking them too much, I simply felt like doing them. When I worked at Inditex, I started with the brand, incidentally at the beginning, but then it became more established.” He highlights that curiosity is his driving force: “I’m quite curious and practically all disciplines grab my attention. I feel inspired by the world of design in general, by pure architectural lines. Sport is also something that inspires me and that I need daily to start my day with good vibes.”
What makes Pablo stand out is his business vision. “I always say that I’m not a designer, rather a creative director, which encompasses a lot more. I think it’s very important that the business side is understandable, especially because it helps you to have a different view”, he emphasises. Regarding his future plans, only one mantra guides him: to evolve. Over time, I’ve learnt to not think so much about the future. I hope to continue to meet people to create new projects and synergies with. In short, to continue growing,” he declares. Something he even associates to the concept of talent itself: “For me, talent is those people that surpass themselves daily, face their fears, and are constantly evolving.”